Norton Commando Workshop Manual

## Frame and Ancillaries

# F

### METHOD 2

This operation involves removal of the complete front mounting. In order to remove the mounting bolt completely, it may be necessary to remove the right exhaust system as described in Section F19. Proceed as follows:
1 | Remove the main mounting bolt nut and washer.
2 | Using a soft metal drift the mounting bolt out to the right side whilst supporting the weight of the engine to prevent damage to the bolt threads.
3 | Slide back the gaiter at the left side and remove the collar, polyurethane washer and gaiter as a set.
4 | Slide back the right hand gaiter and again remove the parts.
5 | Collect the end cap and shims from both sides.
6 | Remove the two 3/8 in. studs securing the mounting to the front of the crankcase and lift the mounting away.
7 | If the rubbers and buffers are to be changed in the mounting, refer to Section F17.
At this stage clean the engine mounting, end caps and spacing collars thoroughly to remove any corrosion, and replace the polyurethane washers if this is obviously necessary due to wear, uneven thickness or damage Proceed as follows:
8 | Assemble the front mounting less shims in a plain jawed vice. The order of assembly is shown in Fig. F14 and the method of holding the mounting in Fig. F13.
9 | Fit and tighten down the mounting bolt washer and nut. Note: Due to variations in thread length on the bolt the nut may "bottom" on the threads. If this occurs, add spacing washers to compensate for the thickness of the main frame lugs. Secure the self-locking nut to a torque setting of 25 ft./ Ibs. (3.45 Kg/m) so that the spacing collars abut to the centre spacer tube of the mounting.
10 | Using feeler gauges, measure the clearance between the end cap and polyurethane washer at one side only.
If the measurement is found to be, for example, 0.050 in. then it will be necessary to add shims to a total thickness of 0.040 in. This would best be achieved by the insertion of a 0.020 in. shim at each side of the mounting beneath the end cap. Having settled the number and thickness of shims to add, remove the mounting bolt, recheck that all parts are perfectly clean, grease lightly using a silicone grease such as Releasil No. 7, including inside each gaiter, and proceed as follows:
11 | Lift the gaiters, collars, etc. away from the mounting to increase clearance during fitting.

12 | Offer the mounting to the lower crankcase lug and hold loosely in position with the bottom stud.
13 | Pivot the mounting up to engage with the crankcase lug and fit the top stud.
14 | Secure both top and bottom stud nuts to 25 ft./lbs (2.07 Kg/m) torque.
15 | Fit the right side cap shims, gaiter etc. first (the order of assembly is shown in Fig. F14) and ensure that the lip of the gaiter fits well over the mounting
16 | Fit the main mounting bolt from the right side. It will be necessary to align a flat on the hexagon to pass the timing case and the bolt should pass through until it is just flush with the left end of the spacer tube.
17 | Assemble the lett end of the mounting - this is facilitated by "peeling" the gaiter back and if necessary by levering the power unit over in the frame to the right.
18 | Ensure that the gaiter lip is located properly over the mounting, using a small screwdriver to assist this operation.
19 | Push the mounting bolt fully home, fit the washer and nut and secure to 25 ft./lbs. (3.456 Kg/m) torque.
20 | Although the assembly has previously been shimmed and greased, ensure that both gaiter/end cap assemblies can be revolved with finger pressure. If this is not the case, recheck to ensure that the gaiters have not been trapped.

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